Setting refers to how gemstones are set, or mounted, into a metal band. The ring setting is meant to highlight the beauty of an engagement diamond. Style refers to the overall design aesthetic that the ring setting helps create—whether it be solitaire, halo or three stone.
Engagement Ring Styles and Settings
What is an Engagement Ring Setting?
Things to know about the setting before you buy an engagement ring
Looking at the ring from a side view and starting at the top, many rings feature a centre stone setting held by a setting often referred to as the ‘head’ of the ring. The centre stone, which could be diamonds or any other type of gemstone, may be accompanied by side stones. Although it may seem that the centre diamond is most important, the shank style can greatly enhance the way the engagement ring looks. Firstly, “shank” is the official term for the band of the ring and some people may call this the engagement ring setting.
The diamonds pictured here are set with prongs and have a gallery rail that helps keep the prongs secure, located about midway from the top of the stone to the ring rail or bridge. The base of the shank is opposite the centre stone – or head of the ring – and as the shank leads up into the top of the ring and its settings, it may change depth or width and be referred to as ‘shoulders’. Depending on the ring’s design, the shoulder area may taper, widen, split, cathedral, or take on a number of different shapes.
SHANK GUIDE
Pave
The pave engagement rings have a shank that is “paved” in small diamonds, creating a sparkling avenue that gives the illusion that the shank is made entirely of diamonds and making the center stone pop.
Fishtail
Fishtail Pave is a style in which small diamonds of the same shape are set in extremely close proximity. This mass formation effectively coats the metal surface. The gems are separated by and held in place by little “v'”s of the setting metal.
Cathedral
The cathedral setting features a centre stone flanked by arches of metal that come up from the shank. It maximizes the amount of light that enters the diamond to enhance its brilliance, which also minimizes the visibility of inclusions.
Split
A split-shank engagement ring is a style featuring a band that parts as it reaches the center setting. Typically, these designs will have a visible gap between the band and the center diamond or halo. This can have the effect of making the ring appear larger and more ornate.
Knife Edge
A knife edge shank features a sharp edge that goes around the outer edge of the shank of a ring. It effectively divides the ring band into two parts, which meet at the center or the knifepoint.
Bead Set
Bead set gemstones are placed on top of a small hole that is drilled on the surface of the metal. Once the stone is positioned properly, small beads of metal are raised from the surrounding surface to hold it in place. Bead setting is perfect for adding accent diamonds to an engagement ring.
Micro Pave
Micropave Pave is a general term used to refer to any type of setting with pave-set diamonds. Micro pave refers specifically to very small diamonds (typically less than 0.01 carat) that are uniform in size and set using very small prongs.
Channel
A channel set engagement ring is basically a solitaire diamond ring with diamonds set on the shoulders. The diamonds are set in a row between a gold or platinum band and secured by grooves on both walls in between the strips of metal.
Tapered
A tapered style is one where the shank either tapers off towards the center gemstone, or tapers outwards along the band as it circles under the finger.
Twist shank
The metal of the shank twists, creating a lovely interlacing design around the finger. The twist can either be very tight or looser. This is usually dependent on whether the shank is pave or just metal.
